Kampong Glam Singapore: Arab Street, Haji Lane & the Sultan Mosque

Kampong Glam is Singapore's Malay and Arab Quarter — a compact district north of the Civic District where the Sultan Mosque's gold dome and the shophouses of Arab Street and Haji Lane create a distinctive cultural atmosphere that sits comfortably between the colonial heritage of nearby districts and the contemporary boutique culture that Haji Lane has developed in the past decade. It's one of Singapore's most photogenic neighbourhoods and, on a Saturday afternoon, one of its most energised.

The Sultan Mosque on North Bridge Road is the focal point: the largest mosque in Singapore, originally built in 1824 and rebuilt in 1932 in Indo-Saracenic style with a golden dome that gleams over the shophouse rooflines. Non-Muslim visitors are welcome outside prayer times (dress modestly, remove shoes, abaya robes available at the entrance for those who need one). The mosque faces Malay Heritage Centre on Sultan Gate, housed in the former Istana Kampong Glam, which traces the history of Singapore's Malay community from the sultanate period to the present.

Arab Street is the carpet and textile street — Persian rugs, silk fabrics, batik, and the wicker and rattan goods that established the street's commercial character in the 19th century. The shops have evolved but the wholesale fabric trading continues. Haji Lane, the narrow alley parallel to Arab Street, has become Kampong Glam's bohemian commercial spine: small boutiques, concept stores, barber shops with long queues, and cafes with excellent flat whites and courtyard seating. It's busy but not crowded at the right time (early afternoon weekdays).

For food in the area: Zam Zam on North Bridge Road has been serving murtabak (stuffed flatbread) since 1908. The cluster of Middle Eastern and Malay restaurants on Baghdad Street and Kandahar Street cover the full range of the neighbourhood's culinary heritage.